Variations
Leontina’s Tomato Sauce & Spaghetti
Leontina was a benevolent lady, forged of pure kindness, who cared for my mum as a toddler, came to help care for me in my first months and, a decade or so later, did the same for my sister Rachel. Years later, when she was retired to her final home in a convent, she came to visit us in Sperlonga. There, she did something that shocked me: she put all the ingredients in the sauce (bar the basil and oil, which went in at the end) raw into a small saucepan along with a tiny, whole onion, and simply boiled it for maybe twenty or thirty minutes. When she was satisfied, she blended the sauce and…. ecco! She stirred in some basil and oil, then used the sauce to dress spaghetti. It was very delicious.
Pici al Aglione
Aglione is a giant garlic, a different variety of the same species that is sold as elephant garlic in the UK. It has a much milder flavour than regular garlic, so you can use more. Replace the garlic in the recipe on with 200g peeled, chopped aglione or elephant garlic (or 100g peeled regular or wet/‘green’ garlic, chopped), and add 60ml white wine to the sauce when cooking it down. Replace the spaghetti with 500g fresh pici, or 400g dried pici, and omit the basil. This is also good with penne or spaghetti.
Penne all’Arrabbiata
Increase the chilli to 1 tsp chilli flakes plus 1 fresh red chilli with its seeds, finely chopped, for a spicy tomato sauce, and double the garlic to 4 cloves; do not omit the basil, it is essential here. This is typically served with penne, but is also good with spaghettini and is, on balance, better without cheese.
Also good with: bucatini, cavatelli, calamarata/mezzi paccheri, ditali/ditalini, farfalle, fettuccine, fusilli, gnocchi, linguine, mafaldine, orecchiette, paccheri, pappardelle, penne, ravioli, rigatoni/tortiglioni, spaghetti, spaghettini, tagliatelle, tonnarelli, ziti/candele